BurdaStyle

BurdaStyle 6387 – A New Dress Coat and Annual Sewing Tradition

Hello all,

I hope this post finds you all well; body, mind and soul.

It has been so long since I have written, and I have missed the journaling part of my activities.  Much has happened in the last six months.  Most importantly, I started a new job which has brought long hours, much learning and a well needed, fresh outlook.  The downside to this of course, has been less sewing while I adjusted to my new role, the length of my work day and the level of sheer tiredness in the evenings.

But, as weeks passed and I adapted to better routines, the creative itches came back, thank goodness.  Which brings me to the latest in a series of annual sewing projects – a new dress coat.  For whatever reason, I make a new one each year, keep the latest two or three and the fourth is donated.  Because they are long, dress or frock coats, they are not worn every day and are still in excellent condition when they go off to their second life.

This year, I used BurdaStyle 6387.

I can’t remember the last time I sewed a Burda pattern – it has been years.  Admittedly, I have been put off by them in the past as I had struggled with their instructions.  But, time moves forward and I was drawn to the fit and flare as well as the large shawl collar.

Of course, 2020/2021 being what they are, I turned to online shopping for my fabric and decided on this absolutely lovely Alberini Italian wool/cashmere  from Mood Fabrics.  I chose “Forest” green, but it is available in a suite of colours here.

I omitted a couple of items from my version of this coat:

  1. The belt.  I have enough fabric spare, that I can make one later if I change my mind.  But for now, I’m not fussed about it.
  2. The pockets. (gasp!). I feel rather guilty owning up to this.  I know how we love pockets in our garments, and that they are quite often omitted in RTW.  But the placement of them in the centre front seams was a bit odd.  Had I given it a bit more thought, I would have moved them to the side seams.  Alas, hindsight…

So, let’s get back to that pattern, shall we?  My prior reservations and preconceived notions are all but shattered.  The pattern itself was perfectly drafted.  This was, arguably, the easiest sleeve I have inserted.  there was very little easing or adjusting to fit the pieces and despite their numbers, it came together quickly and easily.  I’m sure I spent more time pattern tracing and cutting the fabric than actual sewing.

The cuffs were the only stumbling block, and really it was only because of the number of layers of fabric in the turn up.  I need a clapper and have it on my list for future purchases when the shops open up again.  Look at all these layers:

For the lining, I used a tried and true Bemberg in a shade of dark, loden green and I was thankful to have it.  I bought it from my local Fabricland just before our second lockdown.  They do have curbside service, and I am very trusting of the staff in my local store, but its always nice to see the shade before you buy.

So, I am mostly finished, with the exception of a couple of things.  Hemming, which will be done this weekend by hand, and buttons/buttonholes.  They will have to wait, sadly.  As we are in our lockdown, I have no buttons for this coat and while I have been online and filled shopping carts with various green buttons, I cannot seem to pull the trigger on any of them, without seeing them against the fabric.  I may very well, ask the good folks at Mood Fabrics to make some recommendations from their stock.  We shall see.

Happy sewing, and take very good care,

Andrea

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