McCalls,  Nancy Zieman,  Wardrobe Builder

McCalls 5668 – Light Boucle Jacket

Hello all,

I just finished McCalls 5668 which is a light and versatile little jacket.  Here are the envelope pictures:

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I made view A out of a lightweight boucle that I found at my local Fabricland.  It is a lovely cream weave with a darker ecru and shimmery thread running through it.


The jacket is unlined and I used a medium weight fusible interfacing on the front facings and collar.  The boucle threaded and unravelled quite readily and so I either edge stitched or serged all the raw edges to minimize any stretching and keep things intact.




This is a Nancy Zieman “ten, twenty, thirty minutes to sew” pattern.  Her intent is to break the construction into manageable portions and add an approximate time for each to complete.  I didn’t pay much attention to that aspect.  Generally speaking and working full time, I sew during evenings or on weekends for as long a stretch as I possibly can or until I am frustrated, making stupid mistakes, blind or getting pulled in another direction.

The jacket itself is pretty straight forward.  I read a few reviews for this on Pattern Review in advance and am glad I did so.  There was a recurring comment about the dart at the upper bustline which leads into the neck, fundamentally creating the collar.

It was a little fiddly, but a clever design nevertheless.  Ultimately, what it has you do is pinch the dart, blending it in to where the collar meets the upper edge of the back piece.  You sew it in one line starting at the dart point to the neck edge.  And then again from the other side starting at the dart point working inward each time.  You do this again for the front facing, blending it in to the back facing.

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Edge stitching really made a difference when it came time to insert the sleeves.  This is a well drafted pattern and it is always a bonus when this comes together so nicely.













The pattern calls for shoulder pads and I tacked in a pair.  My daughter made a comment about ’80s but they truly make a difference in how the jacket hangs.  It was sloped and felt sloppy without them.









Overall, I quite like this and can see this in a linen or lightweight denim/chambray.  Here are a couple of pictures of the front and back for you.





















I think I may make a trip back to Fabricland for some more of this boucle.  A matching sheath dress may be in order.

Bye for now,



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