McCalls,  Palmer/Pletsch

McCalls 7092 Palmer/Pletsch – Pattern Review

Hello all,

I just completed McCalls 7092 which is a cute tunic from their Palmer/Pletsch collection.

Here is the picture from the McCalls website:


For this top I used a lightweight RPL that I purchased from my local Fabricland.  It is very similar in hand to Slinky, and just as slippery.   Outside of wrestling with the fabric as it tried to shift and move through the pleats and layers, it went together pretty quickly.  I had this sewn up in a couple of hours.

One area where I had a struggle with the pattern was the front bustline seam.  The entire front is made up of 5 pieces and here is how it breaks down:


The upper front piece is cut twice and folded in half on the centre line, wrong sides together; effectively giving you a left and right front comprised of a double layer of fabric.  This double layer is then pleated.  So, in the pleated section, you now have four layers of fabric.

There is also an inner layer which again is cut twice and folded in half on the centre line.


Once these are lined up behind your left and right fronts, you now have 6 layers of fabric in the pleated section.  Add to that the lower front piece.  All that to say, it took plenty of steam and muscle to press it into submission.

I do like the layered look of this top and it is the detail that makes it unique.  However, if I was to make this again, I would do one of two things:

1.  I would cut the pattern pieces down the centre line, adding a half inch for a narrow hem and sew them in a single layer.


2.  I would forgo the inner front layer altogether and either add a little modesty panel or wear it with a lacy camisole.

Overall, I am glad that I made it and think it is quite versatile to be worn either alone or layered under a jacket or cardigan.

Here it is on the hanger



And on me.





  • Diane

    It is a lovely pattern and looks great on you. I am about to sew it and appreciate your comments on the bodice. I may try your first option.

  • Andrea

    I’d love to see it when it is done! Now that the warmer weather is here, I was thinking of making a sleeveless version

  • Sherie

    Does the top bodice piece completely cover the bust area? I will be making a FBA of 2.5 inches and wondering if I should perhaps lengthen the bodice by at least 1/2 inch to provide enough room for the “girls”

  • Andrea

    Hi Sherie. The pattern does have FBA adjustments but the seam does land just below the bustline. An extra half inch might give you comfort.

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